October 8, 2009

A Day on the Trace

Traffic below Trace suspension bridge

Morning broke in middle Tennessee to the sound of raindrops. “Great” thought I, it wasn’t supposed to rain till Friday. We were attempting to pedal our way south of the precip.

By the time we reached the start of the Natchez Trace the rain had stopped. For once the TV weather geeks knew their stuff. The day continually improved until this afternoon we were riding under sunny skies and the temperature hit 81.

What exactly is the “Natchez Trace”? Here’s the Wikipedia description. “The Natchez Trace is a 440-mile-long path extending from Nashville, Tennessee to Natchez, Mississippi that linked the Cumberland, Tennessee and Mississippi rivers. It was a traditional Native American trail and was later also used by early European explorers as both a trade and transit route in the late 1700s and early 1800s. Today, the trail has been commemorated by the 444-mile-long Natchez Trace Parkway, which follows the approximate path of the trace. The trail itself has a long and rich history, filled with brave explorers, dastardly outlaws and daring settlers. Parts of the original trail are still accessible.”

Flock of wild turkeys seemingly undisturbed by a passing bicyclist

But to be truthful the Natchez Trace is a 440-mile bike path. Oh cars are allowed but the speed limit is 50 mph for the most part, 40 mph the rest of the time. Trucks are not allowed. Traffic is practically non-existent. The Trace is maintained and supervised by the Forestry Service. It is an absolute joy to ride. Hilly? Big time. But one can relax and ride without the constant worry of becoming a Peterbuilt hood ornament.

Jan took her bike out for a spin today and completed two really monster climbs. And one monster downhill. She couldn’t decide which one bothered her more.

Colorado's female Lance Armstrong pedals the Natchez Trace

And then there was her hike. After putting her bike back on the truck she headed out on a Trace Trail looking for a promised waterfall. Until a black snake crossed her path. Most likely geezer hiking in the southern states has come to a complete halt for a couple of Coloradoans.

After her ride today Jan went for a hike on a trail beside the Natchez Trace. Until she saw a black snake. Hike over. Tomorrow when she's not riding Jan thinks she'll read a book.

Today’s route also took us past the grave of Merriweather Lewis who either died by his own hand or was murdered along the Trace in 1809.

Grave of Merriweather Lewis of Lewis & Clark fame. The house where his life ended along the Trace sits a couple of hundred yards behind the grave. No one knows if Lewis was murdered or took his own life. I was surprised to discover he was only thirty five at the time of his death.

There is no lodging along the Trace. We’re 20 miles off the route tonight in Lawrenceburg, Tennessee, a town of 12,000 that claims former Tennessee Senator and TV actor Fred
Thompson as a native son.

We’re approximately 15 miles from the Alabama State line. Tomorrow’s weather promise is clouds before noon, rain after with the chances of precip lessening the further south one rides. Hopefully the showers will be avoided once we cross over into the “Heart of Dixie.”

And finally you can thank me for the Rockies win today. It has long been proven that anytime I tune in a Rockies game, TV or radio, the Rox immediately go in the tank. Yesterday, at the end of our ride, Jan turned on the radio to pick up the XM satellite feed. It was the 5^th inning, 0-0 until, and because we were listening, the Phils jumped all over Ubaldo Jimenez.

Today, again at ride’s end, Jan tuned in the game. The first pitch was Ryan Howard doubling in the Phils first run. Thank goodness the Rox had scored early in the game. I insisted the radio be turned off so the Rockies could win. Which they did. Your welcome Colorado.

By the way Jan thinks this is total weirdness on my part. Women just don’t understand the nuances of baseball.

On a side note, the odometer on my bike's catseye hit 5555.5 today on the Natchez Trace. I remember 1111.1 was pedaling RAGBRAI in eastern Iowa. 2222.2 was riding across North Dakota. 3333.3 happend on Minnesota's North Shore pedaling toward Duluth. 4444.4 was an early April ride to Palisade. Wonder where 6666.6 will occur?

Tonight’s our final night in the Volunteer state. So why not feature the greatest female country songwriter in history. Dolly Parton and her “Tennessee Mountain Home.”